特にtakaはV4を2つ落とした、しかもセッションなしだったので一人で解決したのがすごい。 Pocket Pool V4**は特に上部が難しいようだった。 おいらも参考にさせてもらったｗ Black Carpet V4**も上部のリップ辺りのムーヴが複雑そうだったし、マントルが難しそうだった。 おいらなら無理やり登ってしまうんだろうなorz
We flew into Atlanta and drove to Chattanooga last night, about 2.5 hours driving with traffic.
At LRC we started at closest area from the golf course's lodge where it will get crowded during the weekend. The Wave V6*** took me several tries to finish but flashed Genghis Khan V5***. Both problems are pretty good problems. Kingpin V6*** was not the best one due to its height and quality; you can find fun and much harder sloper problems in HP40.
taka finished her first V4 in LRC, Mystery Groove V4***. I sent it too and I like the problem very much because of unique pinch feature. taka finished second V4, Mescal V4** as well.
I wanted to try Super Mario V4*** but instead I started to do Redhouse V7***. The start was the crux but managed to send it in few tries. I used an intermediate on Super Mario Extension V6** but sent it on second try. The problems were very fun.
Lastly I tried The Pinch V7*** and Cinderella V7*** but no luck. I wasted a lot of skin on these problems, damn it....
Fire Crack Flake V1* -> FL
The Wave V6*** -> RP (5 tries)
Genghis Khan V5*** -> FL
Kingpin V6*** -> RP (6 tries)
Spare V0*** -> OS
Incredarete V1*** -> OS
Two Can Sam V3** -> FL
Mystery Groove V4*** -> RP (2 tries)
Mescal V4** -> FL
Redhouse V7*** -> RP (4 tries)
Super Mario Extension V6** -> RP (2 tries)
x The Pinch V7***
x Cinderella V7***
Yojiro joined with us at Pkill however it rained a little early in the morning. Luckily everything dried quickly and the conditions became very good. This day, I warmed up at Quarantine Boulder and finished Rocko Never Dies V7/8 in second try. Down climb to a good foot hold was the crux but I had no problem this day.
I had no success on Mad Lion V7.
I wasn't pysyched about Sicker Than the Average V8 for longest time because I had no idea how to start that problem but today I was able to start the problem. I broken down the middle moves. For the 3rd try of the day, I finished the problem.
People say Mad Lion V7 is V6 but I have taken a lot of time already. I think I have tried more than 50 tries but never been successful. I wanna see someone finishing this problem because I haven't seen anyone finishing it.
Yojiroくんが最近にSicker Than the Average V8*を登った人の動画を見たって言うので、おいらはそれを参考にして登ってみることにした。 これまでスタートができなくて断念してた課題だったが、スタートは自分なりのムーヴで解決し、中間部分はYojiroくんのニーバー情報を参考にした。 そしたらパーツで分ければ登れることが分かった。 もう時間も遅く、公園のゲートが閉まってしまうので、ムーヴを忘れないようにするために2～3便だけ動画に撮ってもらうってことで初めから登る。 そしたら3便目にして登れてしまった。 ランディングが狭くてこの上なく悪く、ハイボール気味な課題なので、もう一生リピートはしないと思うけど、登れて本当によかったC=(^◇^ ; 上部はアドリブだったのでガシャガシャだけど、登ったった。
動画は2つ
Rocko Never Dies D7/8
Sicker Than the Average V8*
＜Sendage/成果-Yusuke＞
Outbreak Roof V1 -> Repeat
Take it Easy Wally V1* -> Repeat
Tree-Bola Direct-Direct V1* -> Repeat
Tree-Bola Direct SD V2 -> Repeat
Rocko Never Dies V7/8 -> RP
x Mad Lion V7*
Sicker Than the Average V8* -> RP
- Nov. 4th -
Climbers: taka and Yusuke
Most of the problems in Pkill are projects and are pretty difficult to finish so I have tried many different problems. Although I didn't have any red points but I thought there were some progress.
今日は最高気温が9℃なので良い感じの気温。 最近Pkillでは宿題ばかりなのでひたすら打ち込む感じ。 まずはWelcome to Terror Dome V7*。 スタミナつけないと登れなさそうなのが分かった。 寒すぎると長い課題なので指がかじかむ。
Rocko Never Dies V7/8の分解作業は終わったが、デッドでスローパーを取るときの下足までダウンクライムができない。 足が短くリーチのないおいらにはここが核心。
＜Sendage/成果-Yusuke＞
x Welcome to Terror Dome V7*
x Rocko Never Dies V7/8
x Vortex Yoga V9/10*
x Mad Lion V7*
- Oct. 27th -
Climbers: taka and Yusuke
This is first time I have injured my left ankle in Japan but Peter's Kill was wet due to some rainfall during the night which I really didn't know until I arrive at New Paltz. We climbed a few and left for Gravity Vault at USR.
autumn color, best season of all
夜に雨が降ってたみたいでほとんどの岩が濡れてた。 Day 8 V4*はなぜか乾燥してたので登れた。 これは前にやったと思ってたがスタート位置が違ったみたいなので正式なスタート地点からやった。
