I wanted to finish The Pearl V8* after Tim and Yeahuda sending the problem but I had no luck. I had to waste so much energy at low part of the problem due to no reach to other side of arete. damn :(
Cream Cheese V6* was cool problem. Again I had to dead point to the lip.
remedy
after remedy
pebbly holds scientists
fooling with campus climb
serious on campus climb
昨晩カクテルパーティで飲み過ぎて二日酔いorz お昼ぐらいからボチボチ登り始めた。 最近、友人達がThe Pearl V8*を登ったってことだったんでおいらも触りに。
The Pearl V8*はBishopにあるAtariと似ていて、カンテを挟み込む感じ。 ある程度リーチがないと厳しく、おいらは右のカンテがギリギリ届くという感じで、無駄なムーヴを繰り広げることで届くって感じ。 結局登れなかった。 もしかしたらできるかもってくらい。
Yusuke on The Pearl V8
only a practice...
very long move for me
barely holding the right side
G was almost sending the problem
practicing the crux
practiced until end of the day
movie is Cream Cheese V6
＜Sendage/成果 - Yusuke＞
Small World V1 -> Repeat (1 try)
Little Women V2 -> Repeat (1 try)
Generik Erik V0 -> OS
Cream Cheese V6* -> RP (5 tries)
Beer and Pretzels V1* -> OS
x The Pearl V8*
Climbers: Matt, Tim, Brian, Taka and Yusuke Guest Climbers: KK, Yosuke, Satoshi, and Chris
Today we went to super local area. Lookout boulder had several moderate to difficult problems, very few easy problems.
In different direction, there were two overhung boulders. Each had very difficult problems.
Pros: very close and some more potentials
Cons: chossy and very few easy problems for beginners
This is one of those days that I wanted to enjoy some unclimbed moderate problems but the highlight was The Gill Egg V4*. I always tried low foot hold however today I used the higher foot hold and worked. That infamous problem for short climbers are down.
Other problems also were dead point and dyno problems, Gill Crack V4 and Marrakesh Dyno V3.
I new it will rain from 3pm so we climbed only few hours today. I just wanted to finish Lynn Hill's Traverse V8*. It took me many tries to figure out middle section and last section but managed to finish the problem. Definitely the middle cruxy pocket hold was painful.
