2013/06/07

IP bouldering Apr 24, 2013

Diesel V11
Charlie on Diesel V11
Climbers: Charlie, Matt, Nick, Jessie x 2, Mark, Takako and Yusuke

Charlie was kind enough to show us around IP bouldering.

The first area was where Catharsis V9 is located but I didn't touch it.  I finished The Moby V4 and other V3/4 mantle problem.

Then we went to one next to but closer to the parking.  V7 traverse was too reachy for me so I only set the short version a V3 arete.

Next was where Diesel V11 is located.  I did try the problem but no luck.  I also tried Unleaded V9, an one move problem, but couldn't finish it.  The Official V7 was sent by few tries.

Finally we went to the boulder with Font Arete V6.  Everyone got stuck on Humpin' the Fat Bitch V6.

Overall I liked the problems because the quality of problems were great and the rock quality was awesome.

今日はCharlieがIPのエリアを紹介してくれるってことで急遽連行させてもらうことに。 ありがたい。

まずは有名なCatharsis V9があるエリアへ。 この課題は打たず。 で、The Moby V4とマントル核心なV3/4を登った。 どちらもなかなか面白い。
Moby V4
Nick on Moby V4
Moby V4
first move on Moby
Moby V4
heel to a shallow sloper
Unnamed V2
Unnamed V2 for another warm-up
Unnamed V3/4
Matt on difficult mantle of Unnamed V3/4
Unnamed V3/4
Nick on super cruxy mantle


次は駐車場に少し戻ったとなりの岩場。 トラバースのV7はリーチが足りなくて敗退。 V3のカンテ直上とクラック沿いのV2(実はマントルが核心で怖い)は登れた。
V7
Traverse V7
V7
need bit of a reach to do this

で、Diesel V11があるエリアへ。 Diesel V11は少し分解してトライしたけど、核心の2手目と最後のガストンができなかった。 となりのUnleaded V9は一手課題だけどその一手が恐ろしくむずくて敗退。 The Official V7は分解を先にし、つなげて登ったら一回で完登、得意系なのかな。
V7
Matt on Unleaded V9
Unleaded V9
Andrew on Unleaded
Unleaded V9
Yusuke on Unleaded
The Official V7
first move on The Official V7
Diesel V11
Andrew on Diesel V11
Diesel V11
Charlie working on Diesel
Diesel V11
final go for the day

最後はFont Arete V6がある大きな岩へ。 Humpin' the Fat Bitch V6で皆どっぱまり。 結局誰も完登せず。 次はここで遊べそう。
The Hump V6
Jessie on The Hump V6
The Hump V6
we all got screwed on the beta
The Hump V6
huggin' The Hump V6

Unnamed V3/4, Moby V4, and The Official V7
<Sendage/成果 - Yusuke>
Unnamed slab V1
Unnamed slab V1
Moby V4 -> RP (3 tries)
Unnamed V2
Unnamed V3/4
V3 arete
x V7 traverse
The Official V7 -> RP (3 tries)
x Unleaded V9
x Diesel V11
x The Hump V6

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