This was the last day of our tour. I wanted to have taka to try some problem but none of them suited for taka.
The other day, I could not top out Mulletino V6*** so I went out to try it again. I was able to hold the lip of the problem but fell from the top and landed on nothing, but next try I sent the problem. Be sure to have several pads for this problem.
Other than Mulletino, Getcha Some V5*** was pretty good problem. I was sort of tired after 3 days straight climbing.
Glen went back home. We had to figure out with rental car but managed okay.
taka and Yusuke headed for HP40. We started little late but had some good climbing. taka finished her first V3 in the area, Panty Shields V3**. I was taking easy but able to finish Honky Tonkin' V4****, a highball, and Genesis V3***, a lunge problem.
I tried some hard problems but none of them were success....
＜Sendage/成果-Yusuke＞
V0- on Panty Shields Boulder -> FL
Sure V1* -> FL
Growing Stone V2 -> OS
Panty Shields V3** -> OS
Honky Tonkin' V4**** -> RP (4 tries)
Genesis V3*** -> RP (4 tries)
Dope V2** -> FL
x Supa Cola V6**
x Sideline V6***
x Moon Arête V6***
x Skywalker V8***
x Great White V7***
x Chattanooga Plow V7***
* I wasn't motivated to update my blog but I thought I should get back to writing :)
※ 長らくブログを書くモチベーションがなかったんですが再開します。
Climbers: Glen, taka and Yusuke
I started with some easy V0s today at HP40. Glen wanted to do Sandbox V2 so I joined the problem. I think it took me 5 tries to finish this crazy V2. I thought it was the hardest V2 ever...
After Sandbox madness, I flashed Hammerhead V5*** and Popeye V5***. I flashed non-topout version of Mulletino, which said V5. I could not topout this problem; maybe if it is cold enough I might be able to topout...
We went to the furthest area and I flashed Redneck V6***. The main issue about this problem is millions of lady bugs on the boulder, it was crazy... Cuts Like a Knife V5*** was also a flash send, if you are coming from LRC, this problem doesn't feel like a knife, lol. Bumboy V3*** took me 2 tries but this was thanks to many tries done yesterday by Glen.
At last, we all went to Mortal Combat V4****, a highball arete slab problem. I was able to go to the middle part but couldn't do some last moves...
We were in Las Vegas and Bishop during Christmas and New Year holiday. Here's summary of our trip and video that I created.
Bishop snowed so we had no chance to climb at Buttermilks, instead we went to Sad and Happy. Many boulders were covered with snow but I had good luck with Acid Wash Right V9. taka sent Solarium V4, a famous three star problem, with her static move.
Red Rocks, my project Monkey Bar Direct V8 was in good condition and had a success.
We moved from Chattanooga, TN to HP40 in the morning. Driving was about 2 hours. I had a rest day. Glen was still climbing on this day, lol. I was watching his climbing and thought HP40 is difficult area... Thanks Glen for betas :)
Climbing two days in a row, I had no skin left but since this was the last day of LRC I pushed myself a bit. Flashed Tristar V4***, Dragon Lady V4*** and Life is Goodlett V6*. Bent V6** was a highball and pretty good problem. I didn't think I was able to do Jerry's Kid V7*** but I guess this problem is better with shorter height, I finished it in few tries.
当然ながら2日目連続なので指皮はないorz しかも昨日のNow and Zen V7で相当指皮を持っていかれたので最悪だったけど、LRC最終日なんで頑張ることにした。
クラック課題のTristar V4***はフラッシュできたが、とても難しい課題だった。 長身の人は2手くらいで終わっちゃうのが、何だか悔しいorz Dragon Lady V4***でセッションしてるところを割り込ませてもらったら一便で登れた。 デッドなので何便も打ちたくないので渾身こめて飛びました、とさ。 近くにあるトラバースのLife is Goodlett V6*の登り方を教えてくれた人がいるので取り付いたらフラッシュできた。 ラッキー。
Bent V6**って課題もやる。 上部が若干怖かったけど、無理やり完登。 Glenは上から落っこちて来たので、スポットの方が怖かったｗｗｗ
techy moves on Bent
cruxy mantle
Jerry's Kid V7***はスタート核心(?)の垂壁課題。 ハイボールっぽいけど上部はガバだから安心。 4便くらいで登れてうれしかった。 でかい人は特にスタートが難しいみたい。 最後はマントル核心のThe Fish Market V4***とハイボールなThe Big Much V4**をやって終了。 何だかんだ最後まで楽しめたー。
動画は以下の課題たちです
Tristar V4***
Dragon Lady V4***
Life is Goodlett V6*
Bent V6**
Jerry's Kid V7***
The Fish Market V4**
The Big Much V4**
＜Sendage/成果-Yusuke＞
Brian's Brian V1*** -> FL
Keel Hauled V3* -> OS
Tristar V4*** -> FL
Dragon Lady V4*** -> FL
Life is Goodlett V6* -> FL
Bent V6** -> RP (3 tries)
Jerry's Kid V7*** -> RP (4 tries)
The Fish Market V4** -> FL
The Big Much V4** -> FL
Climbers: Glen, taka and Yusuke Guest Climbers: Randy and Leslie
My skin didn't recover whole lot but I climbed a lot. A Face in the Crowd V7*** didn't take so much time for me to finish, but Glen flashed it; well done. We all had no luck on Grimace V8***....
I tried many times on Now and Zen V7*** loosing most of the skin, and unfortunately I couldn't finish the problem. The crux were the beginning few moves and I thought it wasn't too hard but I guess it was pretty difficult.
Midway V7**, a campus traverse problem wasn't too difficult. I didn't like the fact that it became a campus problem... Diesel Power V5*** was a great problem but very hard. Blind Spot V7*** next to Diesel was another powerful problem. I was able to finish it but by the time I sent it my skin were raw :(
While Randy and Glen were trying Heroin V7***, a dyno to a sloper problem, I sent White Trash V5***. I couldn't finish Cyclops V6** but if I have more skin and energy I think I can send it.
今日は指皮が回復しきってないけど登りまくりましたｗ まずはミニハングのThe Ribcage V3***とThe Sternum V5***で指と体慣らしをする。 好き系の課題だったのでいい感じに温まった。 近くにあるA Face in the Crowd V7***は数便でさくっと登れたが、すぐ裏にあるGrimace V8***はヌメって登れなかった。 もっとトライしたかったが指皮温存ってことでこの場は撤収。
Now and Zen V7***は見た目は難しそうじゃないのに、登れなかった。 核心である下部が繋げられなかった。 岩が鋭く、指皮を大量に持っていかれ、無駄打ちしてしまって、ものすごい後悔。
動画は以下の課題です
The Ribcage V3*** (flash)
The Sternum V5***
A Face in the Crowd V7***
Pocket Pool V4** (flash)
Midway V7**
Diesel Power V5***
Blind Spot V7***
White Trash V5***
＜Sendage/成果-Yusuke＞
The Ribcage V3*** -> FL
The Sternum V5*** -> RP (2 tries)
A Face in the Crowd V7*** -> RP (3 tries)
x Grimace V8***
Pocket Pool V4** -> FL
x Now and Zen V7***
Midway V7** -> RP (3 tries)
Diesel Power V5*** -> RP (3 tries)
Blind Spot V7*** -> RP (6 tries)
White Trash V5*** -> RP (4 tries)
x Cyclops V6***
The Pancake Mantle V2*** -> FL
