We had only AM for climbing because we wanted to go back to Las Vegas. taka warmed up on Savannah boulder and went straight Solarium V4***. With few more minutes to noon, she statically sent the problem. I'm proud of her sending a classic V4 in Happy.
We headed for Happy again. Sun melted some snow but not completely. I wanted to have taka to try some problems but ended up boys to climb all day, so sorry.
I warmed up on easy stuff on Serengeti wall. I missed the flash send of Serengeti V5*** but sent it on my second try.
Ketron Classic V4*** took more tries then Serengeti V5***. I guess it is more height dependent.
Glen and I tried thousand times on Every Color You Are V6***. We both had good progress and I got to last mantle move several times but failed! I wanted to finish the problem but it was freezing cold and we were very exhausted.
＜Sendage/成果-Yusuke＞
Elephant Graveyard V0- -> OS
Durban Poison V0- -> OS
Serengeti V5*** -> RP (2 tries)
Ketron Classic V4*** -> RP (4 tries)
x Every Color You Are V6***
Climbers: Glen, taka, and Yusuke Guest Climbers: Aki, Ivan and Ume
Snow didn't melt as much but we decided to go out to Happy. Some problems were not climbable but we were able to get on to some problems.
My project, Rave V7*** was safe. I tried several times and sent this problem; it is my style.
Many people were climbing at Acid Wash cave because it was save from snow, so I joined the session. With many other people's beta, I figured my own move and finished Jug-start to Acid Wash Right V7**. I was watching people having a hard time of sit start but with my short height and my short legs, it wasn't as hard as I thought it would be. With few tries, I sent Acid Wash Right V9*; this supposed to be my first V9 in the states. Low ball, core, short moves, lol....
We met Ivan and Ume from Japan. I should've worked on The Gleaner V6** with them but I was too tired. Also, I couldn't finish The Hulk V6**** again, damn it.
Acid Washで人がワイワイ登ってるのを発見したので参戦。 まずは立ちスタートのJug-start to Acid Wash Right V7**をやる。 リップ取りが分かってからも何度か落ちたけど完登できたC=(^◇^ ; ﾎｯ! 色んな人のムーヴを参考にしたけど結局自分ムーヴで落ち着いた。
シットスタートはAcid Wash Right V9*。 激キョンが苦しいのか、みんなポロポロ落ちたりしてたけど、背が低く足も短いおいらにはピッタリサイズだったんでスタートが容易にできた。 後はV7やるだけ。 それなりに疲れてたけど数便出したら登れた。 アメリカで初のV9、とりあえず2012年の抱負は達成した ヾ(*ΦωΦ)ﾉ わーい
Aki on V9 version
Funky start of SD version
my crux of Acid Wash Right
イバンさんとウメさんにも出合って、一緒に何回かGleaner V6**を打たせてもらったが登れなかった。 もうちょっと頑張ればよかったorz The Hulk V6****も再トライしたけどやっぱりダメだった。 うーん
動画はRave V7とAcid Wash Right V9
＜Sendage/成果-Yusuke＞
Run With Me V2** -> FL
Rave V7*** -> RP (7 tries)
Jug-start to Acid Wash Right V7** -> RP (10 tries?)
Acid Wash Right V9* -> RP (6 tries)
x The Gleaner V6**
x The Hulk V6****
No climbing due to heavy snow dump last night. Glen got chains for his car, we rented snow shoes, and went out to Buttermilks.
I think at least 1.5 feet of snow was dumped. We walked about an hour with the snow shoes. The air was crispy and the mountains were beautiful. Very good for fun but not good at all for climbing.
We moved from Vegas to Bishop on Dec.24th. Dec.25th, we went to see Buttermilks the first thing in the morning but no luck. I think few days ago snow accumulated this area, so we all went to Sad.
We met Aki from Japan and climbed together during this day. I sent Strength in Numbers V5*** in several tries, pretty difficult for the grade. Molly V5*** took me few tries and Molly Dyno V?* was 2 tries.
I couldn't send Rio's Crack V6***, that was big disappointment to me.
It's been almost a year since I been to Red Rocks. Thanks for Glen and Pilar for us during this tour.
Poker Chips V1** and Potato Chips V2*** are always our warm up. I then flashed Donkey Punch V4* but failed flash on Fluffer V2.
Sent Bubble Butt V7** in few tries using short man's beta, lol.
I always wanted to climb Monkey Bar Direct V8*** so I have broken down the problem into parts. My struggle was the first pocket hold but with few tries, I was able to put together the problem.
Mr. Moran V7** was also flash send. It is a slopey traverse problem which I sort of like, lol. Vino Rojo V6*** has a crux at top of the problem and I could not solve the crux; damn.
これまでずっと登りきれてなかったMonkey Bar Direct V8***をマジメに取り組む。 ムーヴをバラシたが、おいらのリーチでは初手の2本指ポッケが核心、他はそこまで悪くない。 ただちょっとデッドだったりするから確率が悪くなったりするのが難点。 何便打ったかわからないけど、たぶん10便以下で多分登れた。 昨年よりは強くなってる気がした。
During my visit to Japan, Kon-chan took me out to Mizugaki. I tried Yubi-Ningyo 1D but heavy snow started so we packed and went to Hakushu bouldering.
At Hakushu bouldering, I met some old climbing friends. The area had one big boulder and few other smaller boulders. It was flurrying but we were able to climb or I guess we were climbing orgy, lol. I sent one 1Q (which is V6ish) and other easier problems.
