best shot of the day, Shiro's eyes are cute |
Because we were pretty tired from 2 consecutive days of climbing, we went out to Morgantown and got some giant ice cream from Cold Stone and gained some energy back.
At around noon, we headed for Roadside Rocks Area. The approach was 1 minute or less, great:) I had some warm up climbs and got onto Bizzaro V5****. Because my legs are short and not flexible, my heel hook was squeezing perfectly and able to climb with no problem. Helicopter V5**** was ass dragging problem and crux of it is not to hit the ground.
We hiked about 5 minutes to climb Bitch Slap Arête V5+****, and is the only obvious good problem around. The height and the good landing makes this problem super good. I had hard time squeezing and getting the pocket at the top.
これまで2日登って疲れてたんで、ゆっくり目に起床し、エネルギー不足のため(?)にMorgantownのCold Stoneへ行ってアイスクリームを食す。 何でアイスクリーム?www 甘くて多すぎて気持ち悪い感じだったけど、エネルギーが回復したと思うw
on the way to Cold Stone in Morgantown |
The Giant in Coopers parking lot |
start of Bizzaro V5 |
into the crux of Bizzaro V5 |
ちょっと距離があるがBitch Slap Arête V5+****をやりに行く。 ハイボールだけどランディングは割りと良い。 挟み込み系で少し苦手意識ががある。 核心は上部のポッケを取るところかな。 背が低いんで無理やりヒールして取るのがバランスが悪くて怖かった。
lowball Helicopter V5 |
slapping Bitch Slap Arete V5 |
最後はMad Butcher Traverse V2****という長--いトラバースをやる。 ガバ続きだけど、最後の方に出てくるスローパーっぽいレールが核心なので、最後でやられる感じ。
taka playing with Shiro |
taka on Mad Butcher |
beautiful day with Organic pad |
動画は3つのV5 Bizzaro V5**** Helicopter V5*** Bitch Slap Arête V5+**** |
<sendage/成果-Yusuke>
Roadside Rocks Area
Apples V1* -> OS
Schwang V0+** -> OS
Bizzaro V5**** -> RP (3 tries)
Helicopter V5*** -> RP (5 tries)
Bitch Slap Arête V5+**** -> RP (several tries)
Mad Butcher Traverse V2**** -> FL
<sendage/成果-taka>
Roadside Rocks Area
x Mad Butcher Traverse V2****
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