Gunks Peterskill bouldering June 16, 2013

Gravity Owns Spewers V3
Gravity Owns Spewers V3, scary height sacary landing :(
Climbers: Yeahuda, Tim, Matt, Charlie, taka and Yusuke

This is definitely the last day of me climbing in Gunks before moving out to Northwest :(  I know it is already too hot and too humid but we all went to defeat some problems.  But I guess I didn't have any luck but crushed by problems.  
今日は西海岸への引っ越し前の、多分Gunks最後の登り。 もうこの時期で蒸し暑い。

We all went to Village Idiot boulder and tried the projects.  I've never touched Gravity Owns Spewers V3 so I did but was super scary... Humsa V10 felt impossible in that humidity.
Village Idiot V7がある付近でまずは登る。 今まで触ったことがなかったGraviy Owns Spewers V3をやる。 ぬめってると最悪な課題だったけどFlash。 Humsa V10は登ったことがある人がジムにいたんで登れるんだなぁってことで触ってみるが無理ですたw
Village Idiot V7
Charlie on Village Idiot V7
Village Idiot V7
Matt too
Gravity Owns Spewers V3
scetchy for V3!
Gravity Owns Spewers V3
Tim is crimp lover:)
Randy T-shirt:)
Randy never showed up
Village Idiot V7
Yeahuda on Village Idiot V7
Village Idiot V7
tough first few moves
Village Idiot V7
cruxy area
Village Idiot V7
good tattoo spot
mice in Pkill
mice was cheering us
Humsa V10
Matt on Humsa V10
Humsa V10
Humsa isn't a problem for summer
Humsa V10
omitting few holds
Humsa V10
painful holds I see
Humsa V10
Tim should be good at these crimps
Humsa V10
but looks painful to me
Humsa V10
locking hell out of Humsa V10

I tried to repeat Sicker than the Average V8 but fail and fell from top.  On Way to Work V7 was impossible, I don't know how my friend sent this while ago but he mentioned that hold has been broken off after guide book was out but he still was able to send it; super strong man.
で、色々諦めたあげくSicker than the Average V8に移動した。 リピート狙いだが上部で落下しちゃいました。 明らかにペブリーなスローパーがぬめってましたw
Sicker than the Average V8
Tim with funky heel hook
Sicker than the Average V8
I never liked the pebbles but awesome problems in Gunks
Sicker than the Average V8
this guy will get this problem in fall
We all moved to Project Land.  Tried On my way to Work V7 but felt impossible.  Satoshi sent it long time ago so it isn't impossible but it was impossible...
他のエリアでProject Landってマイナーだけど難しくて面白い課題がある場所に移った。 On My Way to Work V7って課題を打ったが全く意味不明w 結局テイクオフ出来ただけで進展なくド敗退。 んで、V3を触って本日は終了。 最後に記念撮影したとさw
Chillin at Pkill
Chillin' or defeated by On My Way to Work V7
On My Way to Work V7
Second move on On My Way to Work V7
On My Way to Work V7
Yeahuda on same position
On My Way to Work V7
bad balance moves
On My Way to Work V7
may be in cold temp
Stepping into Gray V3
Yeahuda flashing Stepping into Grey V3
Gravity Vault USR crew:)
USR crew :) thanks for climbing with us!

<成果/Sendage - Yusuke>
Gravity Owns Spewers V3 -> FL
x Humsa V10
x Sicker than the Average V8
x On My Way to Work V7
Stepping into Grey V3 -> 2 tries


Gunks Peterskill bouldering June 13, 2013

Mad Lion V7
last try of Mad Lion V7*
Climbers: taka and Yusuke

I wanted to send my long time project, Mad Lion V7*, so we headed to Pkill.  This may be the last climb in Pkill.

After thousand tries, Mad Lion V7 was down.  Now I am satisfied.

Magicicada found in Gunks
Magicicada / 素数ゼミ
ずっと宿題のMad Lion V7*。 簡単という話だが背が低いおいらにはとても難しい。 ガストンカチへランジ。 これトマラナインデスヨ! 
今日も何便も出す。 で、やっと止まった。 次のムーヴはちゃんと止まってないと起こせないから何度も落ちちゃったのです。。。 あぁ良かった
Mad Lion V7
knee bar
Mad Lion V7
crimper match
Mad Lion V7
ready for dead point
Mad Lion V7
dead point :(

Mad Lion V7

<成果/Sendage - Yusuke>
Mad Lion V7* -> RP (100000 tries)


GB bouldering June 6, 2013

cute little dragonfly at GB
Climbers: taka and Yusuke
Guest Climbers: Alex K. and Kyle

Today is the revenge day of GB.  It was cooler but not ideal temp.  I really wanted to do Green Goddess V7 and The Bump V8.

Green Goddess V7 took me many tries especially the first few moves that were very nasty crimps in hot weather.  They are rounded crimps and are hard to hold.

The Bump V8 was easy until this crux bump, for me a deadpoint.  I stuck the bump once but I forgot the last moves and failed.  It took me a while to stick for the second time but I was able to send it.

Alex and Kyle were kind enough to show us around but rain started... though I was able to do Big Hairy White Thing V6 in short time:)

GBのリベンジでっす。 先週見たGreen Goddess V7とThe Bump V8.をやりに行く。 

Green Goddess V7は初めの部分が持ちにくい丸くなっているカチですごく嫌な感じ。 でもそれを耐えたら完登。

The Bump V8は名前どおりで飛ばしが核心。 アメリカ人サイズならスタで飛ばせるが、おいらはデッドorz 初めて止まったときは頭が真っ白で落下orz 次に止まるまで数便打ったが何とか止まって登れた。。。

ローカルクライマーさんにいくつか課題を紹介してもらったがまたもや雨。。。 Big Hairy White Thing V6を2便で登ってさっさと撤収した。 まだまだ課題がたくさんありそうだ。
Green Goddess V7, The Bump V8, and Big Hairy White Thing V6

<成果/Sendage - Yusuke>
Pokey V1 -> FL
Gumbey V2 -> RP (2 tries)
Green Goddess V7 -> RP (10? tries)
The Bump V8 -> RP (10+ tries)
Spak V4 -> FL
Big Hairy White Thing V6 - RP (2 tries)


GB bouldering June 2, 2013

This is wrong approach! Watch out for TICKS!!!
Climbers: Yeahuda, Randy, Christina, taka and Yusuke

With little bit of information, we went to GB area in Western Mass.  We were fine until parking space but totally got lost getting into trail in the woods.  We walked in the grass and Shiro had 10+ ticks in his hair so everyone should be careful about ticks there!!!

Arrived at one of the famous area.  We were able to locate Crystal Methods V3 and Scary Menelow V4, and sent both of them.  Crystal Methods V3 felt very hard for the grade.

I saw other problems that looked interesting but we knew the storm will be coming so we came down.

今日はマサチューセッツ州の西側にあるGBと言うエリアへ行った。 情報はほとんどない。 草むらでかなり迷ったあげく、シロには10匹ほどのマダニ付着していた、おぞましい!

結局、課題に到着したのは遅く、Crystal Methods V3Scary Menelow V4だけをやった。 Crystal Methods V3はハイボールでV3にしては難しいし怖い。 V4は無事フラッシュ。 他にも有名課題を見つけることができたが大雨が降りそうだったので3時ごろに撤収。

Crystal Methods V3 and Scary Menelow V4
<成果/Sendage - Yusuke>
Crystal Methods V3 -> RP (3 tries)
Scary Menelow V4 -> FL

Lincoln Woods bouldering June 1, 2013

Yeahuda sending Who Needs Hueco V8
Climbers: Yeahuda, Randy, Christina, taka and Yusuke

It was burning hot this day but my main target was to send Who Needs Hueco V8**** which looked to me doable.  Me being short sized, I had hard time getting the first move and coming to double underclingish position before dyno but with my adrenalin I was able to stick the dyno.  Oh but it was a dab....  so I did it again for no dabature:) damn!

今日はちょっと遠征でLincoln Woodsへ。 3時間半くらいの距離。 やりたい課題はミニハングでダイノするWho Needs Hueco V8****。 動画見てたらできそう、と思いながら、どうせ騙されててできねーんだろうなぁと思いながら、取り付く。
cruxy first move for short dude
cruxy under cling
and dyno
and different angle of a dyno

意外にスタートが遠くて辛い。 あとダイノのポジション取りもパツパツで辛い。 ダイノを単品でやっても止まらない。 こーなったら一からやってアドレナリンに任せるしかないかとw 何度かやったら止まったーーーと思ったら足をマットに引きずる、はぁ・・・・。 で、次にもう一度やったらすらずに完登。 ほっ 

Leap Frog V7もトライするもの、こっちはもっとリーチが必要でダイノが止まらず断念。 あぁ暑かったなぁ

夜はマサチューセッツ州の中央に住んでいるRandyのお父さんの家にお邪魔&お泊り。 夜までしっかり酒を飲んだとさwww

Who Needs Hueco V8 and Hats Off V6

<成果/Sendage - Yusuke>
Who Needs Hueco V8**** -> RP (10 tries?)
Cave Roof Traverse V4**** -> FL
x Leap Frog V7****
Hats Off V6** -> Repeat (2 tries)
x Loadies Dream V8***