Gunks Near Trapps bouldering Apr 21, 2013

G on The Pearl V8

Climbers: Glen, Rina, Taka and Yusuke

Today Glen, Taka and I were hungover, LOL.

I wanted to finish The Pearl V8* after Tim and Yeahuda sending the problem but I had no luck.  I had to waste so much energy at low part of the problem due to no reach to other side of arete.  damn :(

Cream Cheese V6* was cool problem.  Again I had to dead point to the lip.

remedy

after remedy

pebbly holds scientists

fooling with campus climb

serious on campus climb

昨晩カクテルパーティで飲み過ぎて二日酔いorz　お昼ぐらいからボチボチ登り始めた。　最近、友人達がThe Pearl V8*を登ったってことだったんでおいらも触りに。

まずはこれまで触ったことがなかったCream Cheese V6*をやりに。　初めのムーヴもそこそこ面白いが、最後の一手もなかなかしびれるムーヴで良い。　悪い角度のカチホールドから悪い角度のスローパーへデッド。　面白かった。　木に激突しそうで怖かった。　Glenの素晴らしいスポットに感謝。

G aiming for top

G on crux move

Rina trying as well

G again

super spotter G for taka

G wait, no spot for me??

Rina on Beer and Pretzels V1

Taka on overhang but hang over

The Pearl V8*はBishopにあるAtariと似ていて、カンテを挟み込む感じ。　ある程度リーチがないと厳しく、おいらは右のカンテがギリギリ届くという感じで、無駄なムーヴを繰り広げることで届くって感じ。　結局登れなかった。　もしかしたらできるかもってくらい。

Yusuke on The Pearl V8

only a practice...

very long move for me

barely holding the right side

G was almost sending the problem

practicing the crux

practiced until end of the day

movie is Cream Cheese V6

＜Sendage/成果 - Yusuke＞
Small World V1 -> Repeat (1 try)
Little Women V2 -> Repeat (1 try)
Generik Erik V0 -> OS
Cream Cheese V6* -> RP (5 tries)
Beer and Pretzels V1* -> OS
x The Pearl V8*